how to drill holes for guitar bridge

Is that the way it's supposed to be done? Else you might want to go in a woodworking store... you might find what you're looking for in there. Since the bushing meassured only 0.26 mm larger than the nominal diameter, it was a good easy fit with a plastic mallet. The only problem is that I'm using a Badass bridge --but since that's really tall, I can't get it low enough to make the strings touch the frets. Step 3: Drill the holes. Setch: I thought gluing in the studs was a no-no? I'm currently laying down the clear coats, then polish, then put in all the accessories. Here's one that doesn't seem to have been covered: what size drill bit are you (European builders especially) using to drill the holes for your TOM-style/wraparound bridges? Should I just get a larger drill bit for that? I have three sets of studs here --two come from a TOM/tailpiece set from an Asian-built guitar, the other is a set from a new Wilkinson wraparound bridge. And the 12 inch bit I have is about 11.5 mm! You'll probably have to recess the whole bridge like PRS used to do on their earlier guitars. I tell you what bro, I will mail you a 7/16" bit for free if you want me to. (I'd do tests on scrap first of course). Not that I'd play like that anyway but still, I want to be able to adjust it more than I can. Before starting to drill any holes, determine the depth of the holes. At the case of the 7 mm drill at the bridge, the difference was less, about 0.2mm, and I was able to press the bushing in with the end of the rubber mallet. I could possibly find an 11.5 mm metal bit, but it won't have the guide point. A simple way to make sure all of your guitar's string through the body holes line up and are evenly spaced. The bottom part of the posts, which is the smooth metal, fits too loosly in the holes but the upper corrugated part is a bit too large for the holes. Use your bridge to mark the locations of your string-through holes. Make sure you correctly identify A) which size drill piece you need & B) what depth you need to drill so to avoid going through & out the back of the guitar body. Flip your guitar over and place one of the holes you drilled on the top, onto this dowel. × I have recently installed a Schaller TOM, with 11 mm brad point bit for the stop bar, and 7 mm for the bridge. I am well over 100kgs, so i suppose somebody else with less weight might use blows with the rubber hammer. But beware, if any paint gets into the hole, it will be impossible to hammer the bushings in. I was also thinking of just punching it with the router? ), ** Current Guitar Of The Month contest **, Voting for November's Guitar of the Month competition is now open. ), maybe a little more, figure no more than 2-3 mm. Meanwhile, the studs I have are all slightly different as well--we're talking about .5 mm or more in difference. One problem with recessing the studs on the Leo Quan bridge is that you will bottom out quickly, so you won't get much clearance that way. Below: Drilling the hole from the pickup cavity to control cavity Below: The other side of the hole, control cavity side. But I don't want to have send to the states for a damned bit, I want to get this guitar done already! I vote for recessing the studs, simple to do and may even look cool. If you've got a kit where holes need drilling for a Tune-O-Matic style bridge and stop tailpiece e.g. Display as a link instead, × Step 4: Now its time to drill the holes. That's what I hope will happen anyways The reason I haven't done it yet is because I only want to do it once so I don't make grooves on the sides of the holes. 12mm is usually fine - I usually had to use a heavy instrument to 'encourage' the studs down the last few mm's. I recently drilled my TOM posts with a 7/16" (11mm) drill bit. Know Your Gear Stickers a Patron and help keep independent videos going Join me on Facebook post other stuff on instagram and I would love to see you there. Use one of the bridge posts to estimate the depth and place masking tape to identify the depth. Mickguard, December 7, 2005 in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat. The problem I'm having comes from my bits-- the 11 mm bit is actually shy of 11 mm. Mattia: your idea might work --I might be able to find an 11.5 mm metal bit...or will that chew up the wood? Kind of on this same topic, I'm building a solid body from scratch. The Bridge Pin Hole Saws are for cutting the initial string slots in acoustic guitar #5803.028" saw is for bridge pin holes 1 thru 3 or E B G.. All of the studs I have here measure 12 mm at the top (just below the collar). Mark that hole with a big red X. A good, sharp, new twist bit will make you a beautifully clean hole in the wood of your choice, from ebony to maple to mahogany to rosewood.   Pasted as rich text. If I drill the holes with the 12 bit, the studs go in fine--but they're way too loose, they'd slip right out. The guy at the hardware store suggested using the drum sander attachment of my mini drill to widen the holes a bit. It's just harder to center and keep centered. I resorted to using the 11mm bit I have (well, it's more like 10.8 mm or so). Seems to me that it shouldn't require that much force? Hint: it’s better to drill a slightly deeper hole rather than a slightly shallower hole. I know one guy that just uses the bridge as his drill guide but I'm afraid of not getting it square that way. Clear editor. Alternately, order a set of imperial bits from the UK (axminster has got to have 'em, surely?). The only idea I can come up with right now is to drill the holes with the 11 mm, then wrap the end of the bit in sand paper and manually enlarge the holes until I can press/hammer the studs all the way in. PM me if you do.. × If you end up with a bit of slop, you can always coat the inside of the hole with epoxy, then bed the the bushing down into that. I've got a bunch of them, so it's no problem.   You cannot paste images directly. Stewmac's site indicates that I need an 11 mm bit to drill the holes. Here's my dilemma; the diameter of the posts measures exactly 7/16 inch. Once I push in the posts (or gently hammer or heat the posts with an soldering gun), the corrugated metal will dig in the wood/poly and sit in there nice and tight. I have a Gotoh Tune-a-matic bridge that I'm about to drill holes for. So with the 11 mm bit I should be able to get the bushing in there ---but in order to do that I'm really going to have pound away with a rubber mallet.

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